莫名的青春▲你可知沙面岛上藏着三个中国“第一”？The olden days of Shamian Island( 四 ) 沙面

海关“暗道”
A secret passage for cargoes
清朝时期的沙面，和粤海关有着紧密联系，除了设有粤海关洋员、华员俱乐部和高级官员住宅楼，还为货物的进出口提供了“暗道” 。
Shamian was closely related to the Canton Customs in the Qing Dynasty, as it had houses and mansions specially built for foreign crews and senior officials as well as secret passages for smuggled goods.
当时，洋船进口，货物入仓，海关查验，不过是个形式，买办们经常是以多报少的，这样一来，流入市场的“老鼠货”包括鸦片、吗啡、军火等等，无不应有尽有。
The relatively-isolated island also provided a secret passage for the import and export of cargoes. Under the shield of the customs, it was quite common for compradors to conceal some of the goods, including illegal items like opium and morphine.
在走私商品的同时，洋商们也从中国大量采购生丝、茶叶、木材、桐油、钨矿砂、草席、猪鬃毛等货品出口。
Meanwhile western merchants were acquiesced to smuggle commodities while exporting Chinese goods like raw silk, tea, timber, straw mat and bristle.
时任粤海关税务司的杜德维及家人位于沙面的住所，摄于1893年。图片来源：布里斯托大学中国老照片项目 House
西方国家不但将军火卖给军阀，而且也卖给“大天二”（土匪），因此，在军阀混战、盗匪如毛的旧中国，外国军火竟成为一种经常性、长期性的大宗进口物资。
Some westerners even sold munitions to warlords and bandits to maximize their profit without bottom line, making foreign munitions a sort of "regular" imported bulk cargoes.
广州西餐的摇篮
Cradle of western cuisine in
Guangzhou
在广州的饮食业上，沙面也有其独特的位置：它是西餐在广州的发源地。很多人都知道，太平馆是中国人开的第一家西餐馆，而它的创始人徐老高，原本就在沙面旗昌洋行当厨师，并因此学会了西菜烹调技术。
Apart from inflows and outflows of goods, Shamian also witnessed the debut of western cuisine in Guangzhou. Xu Laogao, the first Chinese to own a western-style restaurant in Guangzhou, got his cooking skills regarding western food from his experience as a chef in Russell & Co. located in Shamian.
根据上世纪初《时事画报》的图文报道，西式餐饮已成为上流社会追逐的时尚。 According to Shishi huabao (Il
到上世纪30年代，沙面的西餐业一枝独秀，汇聚了东桥、玫瑰、经济、域多利等多家西餐厅，这种密度在当年是很罕见的。在西餐中，牛扒算是低档菜，葡国鸡则算高档菜。顾客大多是沙面的洋人和洋行买办、职员。
The 1930s had seen western-style restaurants sprouting like mushrooms in Shamian, among which steak was considered low-grade while Portuguese chicken was deemed high-class. Most customers were foreigners, compradors and office clerks working in firms and institutions in Shamian.
1997年底，国务院将沙面列为国家级文物保护区，其中有53栋建筑被列为全国重点文物保护单位；随后，广州市政府对沙面岛上80多幢文物建筑实行全面保护，重点修缮整理了其中10多幢。今天的沙面岛，俨然已成为一座风景优美的西式建筑大观园，而当年的往事也并不如烟，隐匿于一座座西式楼房里，等待人们去发现。

莫名的青春▲你可知沙面岛上藏着三个中国“第一”？The olden days of Shamian Island( 四 )

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